Want to integrate a 7 port USB hub into your Raspberry Pi project, but don't want to rip one out of a pretty plastic case? Don't worry! We've got our hands on some stripped down, "naked" USB hubs which work great with the Raspberry Pi!
They have some pretty special features too. . . . .
Fully tested for compatibility - plug and play!
PCB footprint is very close to the Raspberry Pi - 6mm overlap on length & width
Each hub is able to sufficiently back-power a Raspberry Pi Model B.
If you don't want to back-power your Pi, it is very easy to modify this hub to stop - Tutorial below.
Each hub includes a 5V 2.5A UK power supply (EU & US adaptors available)
Each hub includes a 0.5m USB A to Mini B cable.
We've drilled some M3 holes for mounting (in addition to the M1 corner snaps)
There's no solder mask (so you can hack it all you want!)
This hub must be connected to your Raspberry Pi at boot
This hub comes with NO warranty once modified
Fully CE Approved Hub
7 Port USB hub
3.5A over-current protection on board
1.2A max draw per USB port
Supports USB 2.0
Includes 0.5m USB Data Cable
Includes 5V 2.5A UK Barrel Jack Power Supply - 3.5mm OD x 1.35mm ID
Dimensions: 95mm x 73mm x 14mm
M3 Mounting Holes
How to Modify Hub Back-Power Capability
Back-powering on the Raspberry Pi is the mode of powering your Raspberry Pi via the 5V line on a USB port (as opposed to the Micro USB power port). This is a very effective way of reducing clutter when using a USB hub with your Raspberry Pi, as it essentially means you do not require a separate power supply for the Pi itself.
If you don't want your Naked hub to back-power your Raspberry Pi then you need to short the 5V line from the hub somehow. You can modify your cable (just snip the 5V line) or the hub! We're modified the hub below:
Get a pair of needle nose cutters and snip the Vcc line as denoted above (be careful of the other lines!)
That's it - break the circuit from the Mini USB port and you're done - no more back-powering!
In a previous question I asked if there was a stp file for the hub. The response was no but I was directed to use the model for one of the cases. The problem with that is neither of the two case models nor the 2D dimension drawing in the photos section agree. Which is correct please? I am having mounting holes machined in to my case to hold the Hub but right now I can't tell the Designer where to put them.
The 2D drawing and the laser cut file are both correct. The laser cut file simply has a 5mm border.
Can you therefore tell me which one of the solder points on the back of the board are the Live, Earth and Neutral for the Power Jack. Also, can you tell me which of the solder points on the back of the board are which for the USB. They are in a 3 then 2 configuration. Many thanks
As previously mentioned, there is no "live", "earth" or "neutral" - Only V+ and V-
With the USB ports facing the table, so you can see the green PCB and with the barrel jack orientated so its facing up.
DC Barrel Jack Pins (left to right): V-, V-, V+ USB Pins (left to right): Pin 1, Pin 2, Pin 3, N/C, Pin 4 or V+, D-, D+, N/C, V-
I'm wondering, on the back of the unit which soldering points are live, earth and neutral and can you also give me a tear down on the soldering points for the USB to computer connector as well please? thanks
There is no "earth, neutral, live" only V+ and V-
The polarity of the soldering points are shown on the top of the board, either with a "+" indicating V+ or shaded black, indicating V-
You can see the pinout of the USB adaptor here - https://www.moddiy.com/product_images/uploaded_images/patillaje-conector-usb.jpg
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